Method of making shoes



Patented July 23, 1946 METHOD oF MAKING SHOES Karl A. samer, Nahant, Mass.,.assignor to United,- Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J a corporation of New Jersey Application July 14, 194.5, Serial N0. 605,068

7 claims. (c1. 12-142 This invention relates to methods of making shoes `and V,particularly shoes,vv having open rear ends and heels which are trimmed after attachment thereto such, for example, as leather heels.

In shoes of the open-heel type, the rear part of the shoe upper `may be entirely lacking or may Y consist only of an ankle strapor a strap extending about the rear end of the foot above the bulge of the heel. YThe heel-seat portion of the insole of such shoes is left without support, that is, Without anything to hold itagainst the bottom of the, last. This condition renders diiicultnot only the location of the shoe and heel relatively to each other and the attachment of the heel, but

.to separate from the last bottom, accurate trimming and nishing of the heel being thusren- .dered difficult or impossible.

Objects of this invention are to provide a method 'by which an untrimmed heel on a shoe having an open heel end may be accurately located, attached', trimmedI and iinished, and to improve the lqualityof this type of shoe.

In practising the Vmethod-of the present invention the quarter lining of the shoe is made tov extend about the Vrear end of the last and is of sufficient extent heightwise to enable its lower portion to be lasted over the heel-seatv portion of the insole.; The lower portion of the lining is then lasted over the heel-seat of the insole in the usualv manner, an outsole and untrimmed heel attached to the shoe, the heel. trimmed, scoured and iin- Aished while the insole is heldtightly against the last by the lasted lining and then aV portion of the' lining is utilized to cover the edge face and kmarginal portion of the insole about the heel-seat.

In case the upper at the rear end of Vthe'shoe consists merely of a strap extending about the rear end of the foot above the bulge of the heel,

the upper .portionof the quarter lining will be utilized to line the strap and, of course, the right or finished side of thev lining will be exposed inside the shoe and the unfinished side of the lining exposed in the region of the open heel. Therefore, the portion used tocover the edge face'and' marginal portions of the insole will be wrong side out. This construction, however, would be acceptable if the lining were of reversible-marenal, that is, if either side of the materiai were 55' 2 suitable for exposure in the finished shoe. YSuch materials, however, are not usually available and, accordingly, as a further aspect of the method, the quarter lining is made to extend toward the sole only part Way acrossftheheel opening and' has secured.y thereto a piece of material with its iinished side out and of a quality to provide a suitable cover'for the rear end of the insole. v

Thispiec'ed quarter lining or extension of the strap lining is lasted over the heel-seatv portion Vof the insole, thus providing in eiiect a complete upper in the rear part ofv the shoe. Then, after an outsole` and an untrimmed heel are attached and the heel trimmed and finished, including slugging` of the top-lift if desired, the quarter lining is severed alongl a line substantially parallel to the planeiof the heeland spaced heightwise off the heel of the shoe therefrom sufficiently to provide enough of that portion of the lining material which is right side out to cover the edge face and marginalportion of the inner face of the insole. This lining material is then laid over tlie inner face of the insole and attached thereto by' cement, its marginal portion being pinked if necessary to cause it to lie iiat without wrinkles. The remainder of theV lining material extending from the'strap (ifl a strap is used) into the heel opening'is trimmed iiush with the lower edge oi thestrap, resulting in a finished open-heel shoe Ywith-a properlyV located, attached, trimmed and -nished heel.

In the drawing, f

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of. the rear portion of a shoe 'being made in accordancey with the present invention and showing a complete quarter lining lasted over the heel-seatv portionof an Y insole;

Fig.. 2 is a similar view of a shoe' after a sole and an'- untrirnmed heel'have been attached to the shoe and the heel partially trimmed; I

vlhg. 3 is a perspectiveY View of the shoeY after theheel hasbeen trimmed and iinishe'd, the last removed and the upper portion of the quarter lining? trimmed away; and g Figi 4 is a similar view showing ther utilization of tlie lower portion of a Iquarter lining asa cover for the heel-seat portion-oi the insole.

invention, as` herein illustrated, upperV I0 is prepared' as shown in Fig. .1, mounted upon a last" |12, and 'the shank and forepart lasted inany y usli'al vr'iianner, a shoe of welt construction being Y indicated the' drawing. In' the finished shoe the rear part of the upper may consistt only of a strap I4 extendin'gaboutithe' heel `end oi the' last -`end. Y Y i VAfter the usual-fmishing operations lon the heel --and sole are completed, the last is removed and downwardly" into" whatv` will eventually bev th'e opening at the heel end of the shoe. Tothe lower portion of the lining IB is secured in any suitable manner, for example by zigzag'stitches 2l)v y as shown, a piece of material 22 with its iinished' 'side out and suitable for binding the edge'portion y of the rear part of an insole-24 whichisftobe' exposed in the heel opening. This piece 22 is wides enough so that it can be lastedoverthefheelseat portion f the insole 24 and secured thereto in any usual manner, for example by tacks 26 as l shown inV Fig. 1. The pieces l and 22 together 'constitute al complete quarter. lining the lower marginal portion ofl which can be worked `over v'and securedV to theouter face of the'insole', thus holding the rear yportion of the shoe ,tightly V.against the bottom ofthe last l2, thefcondition at lthe rear end of the shoeKFig. 1) being thus 25 lrendered similar to that of ashoe having a complete upiglerwith the heel-seat lasted in the usual manner. *Afterattachment of an outsole t28 inV any usual manner, the location .and attachment Y "of an -untrimmed heelill,which are the next steps, are facilitatedbyhaving the insole thus vheld tightly in place against the 'lastv After attachment of the heel, it is trimmed,vscoured.and

iinished andgifdesired, slugs 32 may be inserted through'the top-lift. These operations can be "carried vout with the same YfacilityasV theyare upon afshoe having a complete upper at theA heel `*the part22 of the lining'cut below its attachment The Yexposed portionpf the edgefof the strapl', as shown inA Fig. 3. Cement i'sfthen VappliedV tothe marginalportion of `the insole and to the inner face of the upstanding 50 portion oflthe piece 22. This portion is then laid over upon the'cemented insole and may be pinked as shown'at 36 if desired'to enable it to lie flatY `upon' the insole, A heel pad 38 may beapplied overl at least a portion of the insole.

The strap lining I6 may, of course, extend Y,far enough to be lasted over the insole, but in that `case the lining material should benished on its outer as well as its inner side. This methodV may be followed Vwhere a reversible lining material is 60 available one'side of which is suitablefor exposure inside andthev other for `exposure outside the shoe. However, under usual conditions'it lwill be more desirable andconvenient to employ'V a'pieced quarter vlining the upper part of which has an inside nish and the lower part an outside huish', as abovedescribed. If .the shoehas Yno strapat 'the heel end orA only a high ankle strap,

" A`the quarter lining may be extended to forma Y y 4 n Y 7o: ter lining, and'utiliZing Va portion,pr'A the quarter l liriingfto'c :o'verfthe` edge ',face' and inner. marginal closure forthe/rear end of the last and may be k,pieced'ornot, depending on the materials used.

In 1 this pase, after` 'the lining is 'lasted .and the flhe'el attached, :trimmed and finished, Lthelining `will be cut at the proper .distance abovethe Vinsole and its lower portion utilized to cover the heel end of the insole, as above described. The remainder of the quarter lining which extends rearwardly beyond the shoe upper will be trimmed away to provide a shoe having a completely open l heel end.

Having thus described my invention, what I i claim as new and desire toV secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of making '10 shoes which comprises providing an open-heel l upper with a complete quarter lining, assembling the upper on a lastl with an insole, lasting said '4 lining to the heel-seat of the' insole, attaching a "'heel to the shoe, trimming andfinishing the "fh'eel while the insole is held in place on the last bottom Vby the lasted quarter lining, and utilizing a portion of the quarter lining to cover the edge face of the insole where it would otherwise be exposed in the finished shoe.

Y2. 'That improvement. in methods of making shoes which comprises attaching toanextended strap lining. material suitablepfor .covering'zthe rearend of an insole, assembling theiupper and an insole on a'f-last, lasting' the liningl over the heel-seat of the insole, attaching a sole'and an untrimmed heel to, the shoe, trimming the heel, removing a portion of the lining below the strap and-above a line parallel to theinsolevand spaced above itto provide material tobe laid over the marginal portion of the inner face of the'insole,

and laying said material overlandsecuringit to the insole.

` 3. That improvement in methods .of making slopen-heel shoes which comprises y providing a quarter liningattachingjto the quarter lining a piece of material suitable` for coveringthe Yrear i end of an insole, assembling. the upperand an insole on a last, lasting the liningover vthe heelseatfof Ythe insole, attaching a sole and an untrimmed heel' to the shoe, trimming the heel,

removing the', lining' above a line'p'arallel to the insole andV spaced heightwi'selfrom'it to` provide i material to be laid over the marginal portion of the-inner face of the inso1e,and laying said mate- 5' rial over and securing' itttothe insole. i

i v4.That improvement in methods of making open-heel Vshoes vwhich consists in providing. an vripper having a, complete qi'iarter"lining,YV mounting -the"up per.on a last',V lastingthe shank and .rey Vpart vin-the usual.marinerVlasting;y the `quarter vliningonly over the flreele'seat.` of the insole; and

securing itY thereto, attaching van outsole fand an untrimmed heel tothe-shoe, 'trimming and i'lnishing the heel whilethe insoleis. held againstthe last by the quarter lining, anduti-lizing a` portion of the quarterlining to cover the'edge cface and inner 'marginalportion 'of the insole. 5. :That improvementr in metho ds.,

' last, jlasting theslank and'lforepartfin the? usual 'taching anV outsole and an untrimmed heel A'to the manner, 'lasting'zthe quarter lining 'only I over VVthe heel-seat of the insole and securing it thereto`,' at- "shop, vand iinishingthe heel while the Vinsole is' held `against the last by the lasted guarof Y the ir'ifsol'e,v the remainder of 'the` lining with{the,lower edgeA 'oi the 6. That" improvement 'methods''ofiV shoes which consists iin. providing an upper havshoes which consists in providing an upper having an open heel end with a strap to extend around the foot above the bulge of the heel and a two-piece quarter lining the upper portion of whichy has an inside nish forming a lining for the strap and the lower portion' an outside finish suitable for covering the heel end of the insole, mounting the upper upon a, last, lasting the quarter lining over the heel-seat of the insole, attaching an outsole and an untrimmed heel to the shoe, trimming the heel While the quarter lining is intact, then severing the quarter lining along a line parallel to the heel-seat and spaced therefrom heightwise of the shoe, trimming the upper portion of the quarter lining ush with the lower edge of the strap, and laying the lower portion of the quarter lining over the marginal portion of the inner face of the insole and securing itA thereto.

7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing. an upper havlining for the strap, mounting the upper on a last, lasting the shank and forepart in the usual manner, lasting the quarter lining only over the heel-seat of the insole and securing it thereto, atta-ching an outsole and an untrimmed heel to the shoe, trimming and nishing the heel while the insole is held against the last by the lasted quarter lining, and trimming the quarter lining flush With the lower edge of the strap.

KARL A. STRI'ITER. 

